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Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-25 15:24
by darklord63
Thanks a lot. I'm going to order soon. The only thing I might do is slightly down grade from ATI to Nvidia.

Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-25 15:46
by Psyrus
darklord63 wrote:Thanks a lot. I'm going to order soon. The only thing I might do is slightly down grade from ATI to Nvidia.
Yeah the GTX460 is good too, but make sure you get the 1GB version, not the 768MB version :smile:

Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-25 16:37
by Orford
In my old build I had a ATI 1gb 5770. So this time I just added another one in crossfire. Which gives the same performance as 1 x 5890 but only costed me £120 for the second 5770 and not the £260 for the 5890.

Heres some pics of my build with the case you like.

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Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-27 03:20
by darklord63
I also need a good inexpensive joystick for flying helis/jets in ARMA2 and PR. Recommendations?
Thanks

Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-27 04:26
by Ninja2dan
Personally I buy everything I can from the same place, TigerDirect.com. I have been building computers for local businesses, city/county government offices, and individual users for several years all with parts purchased solely from them. My experience with them has been better than any other company I've dealt with in the past 20 years, bar none.


Since you've already been getting plenty of suggestions for products from Newegg, and you appear ready to make your purchases, I won't bother with listing my own personal suggestions. If the components you are expecting to buy offer the features you need, go for it. Just make sure you build it right, and abide by the warranties of all products. This means registering for everything the moment they arrive, just in case.


One thing that I did notice right away that might be of concern is your selected power supply. With the components list you have, I am not sure how well a <600w PSU is going to run for you. The price is fairly low for that SeaSonic model, but you are getting what you pay for: A less-than-common brand at a lower wattage rate. If you can spare the extra money you should try finding a good price for the Ultra modular series, namely their 600w or higher. I'm currently using the 600w Ultra X4 and it was well worth the price. And if you upgrade your video card later, add an additional SLI/XFire card, or overclock, then the added wattage will prove a great benefit. My previous X3 550w ran fine under normal loads, but sometimes struggled when running a lot of high-end components and graphic-intensive programs (and that was on my PC I built in 2004). This 600w X4 runs like a demon, with zero fan noise and very low heat output. I'm ready to buy their 1200w next time, that thing is pimp.


The rest of the components listed aren't "bad" (except the vid card, see below), but will leave you lagging a bit in a couple years. I prefer to build a new system only once every 4-5 years, so I usually tend to build the best that I can at the time (within certain budget limitations) so I'm not falling behind so soon. I can generally build a whoop-*** system for less than $1500-$2000 that will outperform most other gaming rigs of the time, and will still last me 3-5 years before a component finally fails or needs upgrading. Hell, I'm still using a 512MB AGP card, but will be moving up to dual 1GB PCI-E cards next time.


One last bit of advice, I noticed that the video card you listed was from Gigabyte. My recommendation would be to stay far away from that company, their products have always given me problems and their customer service is one of the worst I've seen in the industry. And I've been building custom PC's since the mid-90's. You're better off buying a terd on a stick.

The next video cards I grab in a few months will be 2x these cards here, and you can buy two of these for less than one of those giga-nasty cards you linked.

Just in case you're wondering, I try to use cards with DVI and VGA output, DVI for my monitor and the VGA so I can hook it up projection systems or non-DVI monitors when I bring my tower with me to presentations.



For joysticks, it really depends on your personal preferences. You can get sets with separate throttle controls, or joysticks with the throttle built into the base. You can get rudder pedals, or get something like the Saitek that has a twistable stick to function as rudder. Button configuration is another important aspect, button quantity, layout, and response is something different people look at. Personally, I prefer to use one hand on the keyboard while the other uses the stick, so I like the buttons close to the top/middle of the stick, not the joysticks with dozens of buttons around the base. Again, it just depends on personal taste.

I've had a Saitek ST290 Pro for a few years now, and it still works perfectly. None of the buttons stick or "mis-fire", feedback is still smooth and responsive without any stickiness or stutter in stick movement, the base is large enough to help keep it in place without being so huge that it takes up too much room, and it offers good button placement in combination with a twist-stick rudder function. And if you're into buying from Newegg, they have one available there for only $15. Can't get much better than that.




Oh, just a suggestion: If you ever do LAN parties or just want a PC so pimped that your friends will get chubbies just looking at it, you should try one of these. Fits in a 5.25" slot and includes a cigarette lighter and pop-out cup holder. I used one of those on a custom-built PC for a customer, and even wired in an electric cup cooler into the base of the cup holder. Kept a can of soda/beer cold for hours.
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Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-27 09:27
by Psyrus
'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']One thing that I did notice right away that might be of concern is your selected power supply. With the components list you have, I am not sure how well a <600w PSU is going to run for you. The price is fairly low for that SeaSonic model, but you are getting what you pay for: A less-than-common brand at a lower wattage rate. If you can spare the extra money you should try finding a good price for the Ultra modular series, namely their 600w or higher. I'm currently using the 600w Ultra X4 and it was well worth the price. And if you upgrade your video card later, add an additional SLI/XFire card, or overclock, then the added wattage will prove a great benefit. My previous X3 550w ran fine under normal loads, but sometimes struggled when running a lot of high-end components and graphic-intensive programs (and that was on my PC I built in 2004). This 600w X4 runs like a demon, with zero fan noise and very low heat output. I'm ready to buy their 1200w next time, that thing is pimp.
For so long I have seen the misconception spread around the internet that 1000W PSUs are required these days, and it is simply and categorically wrong. When we start looking at TRI-SLI and quad crossfire, then you can consider 1kW PSUs, until then people need to learn the difference between quantity vs quality. The 80+ Gold/Silver certification is a measure of the efficiency of the PSU, ie the conversion of wall draw to component power. These PSUs are highly efficient, and provide stable power along their 12V rails for powering the motherboard, fans, HDD, CPU & GPU [PCI-E]. While it is true that most PSUs perform best at under 80% load, it would appear that the majority of the 'internet' have this misconception that components draw insane amounts of power! I can tell you right now that the build he has been recommended will draw less than 350W at load [in fact much closer to <300W]. I can back this up with multiple reviews from reputable sites. Even high end components (think overclocked i7, overclocked HD5870, 4x HDDs & 6x 120mm fans) do not draw more than 500W at load. How do I know you might ask? Well I read reviews extensively because like you, I do a lot of budget to high end build recommendations, and I believe in giving people the best bang for buck, which means not wasting money on superfluous specs (such as ram latency for people whose use will not be affected by lower latencies, or people who buy 2000mhz ram and never overclock/touch their BIOS, or people who are recommended anything more than integrated graphics when they have no intention of doing anything that would use 3D graphics, or say a 600W+ PSU for a computer that won't draw 300W).

edit: Here's those reviews about the power consumption if you don't believe me:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gef ... 84-13.html
http://www.techspot.com/review/299-pali ... age13.html
http://www.anandtech.com/show/3809/nvid ... 00-king/17

The recommended Seasonic an excellent, low noise, high efficiency choice.
[R-DEV]Ninja2dan wrote:One last bit of advice, I noticed that the video card you listed was from Gigabyte. My recommendation would be to stay far away from that company, their products have always given me problems and their customer service is one of the worst I've seen in the industry. And I've been building custom PC's since the mid-90's. You're better off buying a terd on a stick.
Anecdotal evidence is great, except that it can't be backed up with anything solid. In contrast to your experience, every motherboard I've owned since 2005 [4 of them] has been Gigabyte based (purely on a features/price ratio), with Asus always being the close #2 choice (however always being a little more expensive for no real benefit to me). These motherboards have all been without issue, and very easy to overclock. Most graphics cards just use the stock design anyway, but the OP might as well take heed of your warning as I've never had a Gigabyte graphics card, and have no experience with them.
'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']Just in case you're wondering, I try to use cards with DVI and VGA output, DVI for my monitor and the VGA so I can hook it up projection systems or non-DVI monitors when I bring my tower with me to presentations.
You know you can just use a DVI->D-SUB adapter right? They come with most graphics cards...
'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']I've had a Saitek ST290 Pro for a few years now, and it still works perfectly. None of the buttons stick or "mis-fire", feedback is still smooth and responsive without any stickiness or stutter in stick movement, the base is large enough to help keep it in place without being so huge that it takes up too much room, and it offers good button placement in combination with a twist-stick rudder function. And if you're into buying from Newegg, they have one available there for only $15. Can't get much better than that.
As a saitek user myself, I can attest to their general quality, however stay firmly away from the Cyborg X, it is a terrible piece of hardware. They let the ball drop terribly on that one.

The Thrustmaster 16000M is the latest 'highly recommended' stick around various forums that I frequent, so you may wish to see some reviews and decide for yourself. I'll be buying one if my Cyborg Evo dies anytime soon.
Newegg.com - THRUSTMASTER T.16000M + Tom Clancy's HAWX PC

Re: Help me build a computer.

Posted: 2010-07-28 02:13
by Tofurkeymeister
Also, Seasonic is one of the highest quality PSU manufacturers. The reason they are little known is that they do a lot of OEM work. Remember the PC Power & Cooling PSU Silencer? Seasonic-made. ULTRA, on the other hand, is likely lower quality, as they are a more generic brand (Tigerdirect owns them, I believe).

Also, 550 W is sufficient in my opinion.

Also, my Gigabyte motherboard is chugging away just fine. In fact, Gigabyte is superior or equal to most manufactures.

P.S. Newegg is fine. It all depends on shipping and taxes. I live in Florida, Tigerdirect HQ, so I order from Newegg to save some cash (plus I like Newegg's navigation and shipping costs). That being said, I did buy my sound card from Tigerdirect.