Re: Help me build a computer.
Posted: 2010-07-25 15:24
Thanks a lot. I'm going to order soon. The only thing I might do is slightly down grade from ATI to Nvidia.
Yeah the GTX460 is good too, but make sure you get the 1GB version, not the 768MB versiondarklord63 wrote:Thanks a lot. I'm going to order soon. The only thing I might do is slightly down grade from ATI to Nvidia.

For so long I have seen the misconception spread around the internet that 1000W PSUs are required these days, and it is simply and categorically wrong. When we start looking at TRI-SLI and quad crossfire, then you can consider 1kW PSUs, until then people need to learn the difference between quantity vs quality. The 80+ Gold/Silver certification is a measure of the efficiency of the PSU, ie the conversion of wall draw to component power. These PSUs are highly efficient, and provide stable power along their 12V rails for powering the motherboard, fans, HDD, CPU & GPU [PCI-E]. While it is true that most PSUs perform best at under 80% load, it would appear that the majority of the 'internet' have this misconception that components draw insane amounts of power! I can tell you right now that the build he has been recommended will draw less than 350W at load [in fact much closer to <300W]. I can back this up with multiple reviews from reputable sites. Even high end components (think overclocked i7, overclocked HD5870, 4x HDDs & 6x 120mm fans) do not draw more than 500W at load. How do I know you might ask? Well I read reviews extensively because like you, I do a lot of budget to high end build recommendations, and I believe in giving people the best bang for buck, which means not wasting money on superfluous specs (such as ram latency for people whose use will not be affected by lower latencies, or people who buy 2000mhz ram and never overclock/touch their BIOS, or people who are recommended anything more than integrated graphics when they have no intention of doing anything that would use 3D graphics, or say a 600W+ PSU for a computer that won't draw 300W).'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']One thing that I did notice right away that might be of concern is your selected power supply. With the components list you have, I am not sure how well a <600w PSU is going to run for you. The price is fairly low for that SeaSonic model, but you are getting what you pay for: A less-than-common brand at a lower wattage rate. If you can spare the extra money you should try finding a good price for the Ultra modular series, namely their 600w or higher. I'm currently using the 600w Ultra X4 and it was well worth the price. And if you upgrade your video card later, add an additional SLI/XFire card, or overclock, then the added wattage will prove a great benefit. My previous X3 550w ran fine under normal loads, but sometimes struggled when running a lot of high-end components and graphic-intensive programs (and that was on my PC I built in 2004). This 600w X4 runs like a demon, with zero fan noise and very low heat output. I'm ready to buy their 1200w next time, that thing is pimp.
Anecdotal evidence is great, except that it can't be backed up with anything solid. In contrast to your experience, every motherboard I've owned since 2005 [4 of them] has been Gigabyte based (purely on a features/price ratio), with Asus always being the close #2 choice (however always being a little more expensive for no real benefit to me). These motherboards have all been without issue, and very easy to overclock. Most graphics cards just use the stock design anyway, but the OP might as well take heed of your warning as I've never had a Gigabyte graphics card, and have no experience with them.[R-DEV]Ninja2dan wrote:One last bit of advice, I noticed that the video card you listed was from Gigabyte. My recommendation would be to stay far away from that company, their products have always given me problems and their customer service is one of the worst I've seen in the industry. And I've been building custom PC's since the mid-90's. You're better off buying a terd on a stick.
You know you can just use a DVI->D-SUB adapter right? They come with most graphics cards...'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']Just in case you're wondering, I try to use cards with DVI and VGA output, DVI for my monitor and the VGA so I can hook it up projection systems or non-DVI monitors when I bring my tower with me to presentations.
As a saitek user myself, I can attest to their general quality, however stay firmly away from the Cyborg X, it is a terrible piece of hardware. They let the ball drop terribly on that one.'[R-DEV wrote:Ninja2dan;1399359']I've had a Saitek ST290 Pro for a few years now, and it still works perfectly. None of the buttons stick or "mis-fire", feedback is still smooth and responsive without any stickiness or stutter in stick movement, the base is large enough to help keep it in place without being so huge that it takes up too much room, and it offers good button placement in combination with a twist-stick rudder function. And if you're into buying from Newegg, they have one available there for only $15. Can't get much better than that.