I agree with most of the thread except for the "technical programming jargon".
But I dont have to understand it to play it. LOL
I do want to respectfully point out that the following explanation in regard to zeroing a rifle is incorrect:
Jonny wrote:
To zero a rifle the user must be made to aim the barrel slightly above the target,
to let the bullet rise and then fall onto it at the range it is zeroed to.
To accomplish this the sights must be moved down by a few tenths/hundredths
of a degree so that when they are lined up on a target the rifle will be zeroed correctly.
This angle is very small, it only causes a rise of 10-20 cm at the highest point, but you
will be able to say that the rifles are actually zeroed and that the ballistics are realistic.
I was also told by a friend who was in (I think) the army cadets that they are told to aim for
the neck, not the head. I think this shows why that is.
If a rifle is "zeroed" on a target at a range of 300 yards...there is no need to elevate the rifle's sights
on target to compensate for drop...unless the target is farther away than the zeroed 300 yards.
Thats what zeroed means...no other adjustment needs to be made.
With this, if my rifle is zeroed at 300 yards, but my target is only 250 yards away, I would need to aim
ever so slightly lower than my intended target...not because the round rises...but because my sights are elevated
above the required distance.
A round does not rise at all.
The round will travel when fired in a straight and flat trajectory (under ideal conditions) until velocity is lost,
then it will begin to drop. This drop is due to the obvious, loss of speed and gravity's pull.
Once again, the round will not rise unless it is fired at an upward angle by the shooter.
When properly sighted and zeroed....the round goes where the sights are looking....not where the barrel is pointing.
The realization of this fact is key.
I learned my marksmanship skills on the Hue City range at Parris Island. And I maintained the award of "Rifle Expert"
my entire time in the Marine Corps. But, if you would rather take the word of an "army cadet" please feel free.
So, to engage targets at greater distances beyond that of the 300 yard zero, you make adjustments to elevation
by adding "clicks" on to your rear elevation sight. Engage those targets and remember to take those clicks back off of
the rifle after the engagement. If not you will be shooting high when you engage closer targets later.
But, not because the round rises...but because of your now elevated sights.
Now...what I would propose is to keep the sights graphically in the same place...zeroed at 300 yards to hit a target at
center mass.
Targets beyond the 300 yard range would require elevation added in order to strike center mass.
So when sighted in and aiming at a target at 300 yards...when I fire....the round should strike the target where I am aiming
my sights....no where else.
At targets beyond 300 yards, my rounds should be striking below center mass uless I compensate for elevation....
by aiming slightly above center mass...or ideally if timing allows, by adjusting the elevation sights on the weapon.
Elevation adjustment could be done in game by making a key stroke in the amount of adjustment needed while the weapon
is snapped into sight. For instance, the visual one would have while looking through a scope at the horizon would be seeing
the horizon move up slightly when elevation is added, and seeing the horizon move down when elevation is taken away.
The sight picture/aimpoint would remain the same and unchanged.