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Aight this is what I've got so far then

Cool, but first point I would make is that you really have too many edges for a bomb of this size. My 1000lb Mk-13/18 LGB only has 16 sides where yours has 24 and they are pretty much the same bomb just with laser guided kit attached to the Mk-13/18.




Next the body should really be one entire element in the same object, fully welded up. Currently yours is 3 elements in 3 objects and there are a whole lot of edges in there you don't need which are just wasting tris right now.

For the Nose I would also go with the "Fuse Nose" version as per this pic, since while slightly more tris etc, it will result in much better smoothing than just a collapsed end like you have which really needs a normal map baked from a HP model to really sort out its smoothing issues, or a lot of control edges which aren't worth the tris, + the fuse nose makes it look cooler:



I would also recommend setting up some ref images to work on, simple tut on it here:



Other than that good work so far, keep it up!

This is what I've got now, let me know what you think

Link: imgur: the simple image sharer

If you look at Rhino's image,

http://i.imgur.com/c9LcXMV.jpg

look at near the nose cap where the cylinder reduces its amount of sides, now compare this to the nose cap on yours, you should try to replicate the reduction in the sides of the cylinder as the geometry gets smaller, where you need less sides to represent its roundness.

Do you mean on the fuse part? (Similar to the guidance part on Rhinos)

Yes, but he means starting from the base of the come all the way to the end of the fuse.

I'm on my phone right now, but can someone post him the cylinder optization pic rhino usually posts? Thanks

Tim270 wrote:If you look at Rhino's image,

http://i.imgur.com/c9LcXMV.jpg

look at near the nose cap where the cylinder reduces its amount of sides, now compare this to the nose cap on yours, you should try to replicate the reduction in the sides of the cylinder as the geometry gets smaller, where you need less sides to represent its roundness.

Ye, although in the case of the for the Paveway I was pretty generous in the amount of tris and edges I left on for smoothing purposes etc.

I did also mention and show you how to do this in the bottom of my reply in topic you posted the other day: https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... x-9-a.html

'[R-DEV wrote:Rhino;2054108']Then for optimization purposes you should look at collapsing every other face near the end so the edge size is around the same for the rest of the model:

Next I've highlighted a bunch of issues on this pic here:


Firstly in Red I've done a smooth line of pretty much what you should be aiming to match for the bombs curve and in yellow, I've highlighted where your edges are not meeting this line and currently aren't doing much and you could even remove some with keeping the same kinda smoothness you've currently got. Scale these edges out a bit more so they match the smooth curve

Second, highlighted in green, if you look at the refs, you can see that there is a smooth transition to the tip of the bomb and the fuse end, where you have a big dip which is just taking up tris and isn't helping the model.


Third I've highlighted in blue edges that you can loose, which on the fuse that edge isn't doing anything and is just costing tris so you can remove it. Simplest way is to select all those edges, then press ctrl+backspace together, which will then remove the selected edges and any verts it supports (unless another edge requires those verts but in this case, providing you select them all it wont).

Forth on the tail in light blue I've highlighted that little lump bit on the end which If you look at some of the other refs I gave you, you will see how the tail and its thins actually are, and the thing on the tail looks like a sort of rotating fuse bit on the back with fan blades, also note how the tail thin is different from that 2D artist impression of the bombs, you should never trust those things 100% and should just use them as a basic ref and use photos more, although there looks to be a few different types of tail, some with longer, swept tails and some with block tails etc but all basically the same setup but they all have the same indented rear bit of the tail with the fuse fan at the back





Also collapse down the front of the tail thins so they have a pointy front with a flat end, which saves tris and makes them look more realistic than just a box so they are like " < "

Lastly you should work on your smoothing groups good tutorial here Keep it up!

Ah okay those refs are much better! I was pretty much going off that artist render which in hindsight is not all that good an idea.
I'll work on optimizing the cone and fuse. But how do you think I should deal with that rotating fuse thing on the back end? Should I keep the part you highlighted in light blue and just put it in the proper position behind the fins (once I fix those up)?

Sounds good!

wrecker wrote:But how do you think I should deal with that rotating fuse thing on the back end? Should I keep the part you highlighted in light blue and just put it in the proper position behind the fins (once I fix those up)?

Sorry ye forgot to mention that one. Its a bit of a hard one but I reckon that the best way would be to probably keep the main mesh as it is now, and just add some little, 2D, 4tri planes at a slight angle. Not sure how many you will need but you should make one, get it UVed (with both sides using the same UV since its such a small, insignificant part) and then use the array tool to place lots of them round

then for LOD1, or LOD2 at the latest they can be removed

Oh boy, any good tuts on uv and lod because that will prove a totally different beast for me

Haven't used that tutorial and it is technically for Max2013 but is more or less the same and at a glance it seems to cover the basics pretty well. Reason for doing the UVs on the thin and other things like it that you plan to use the exact same part of the texture sheet, before cloning them is so you don't have to spend ages later UVing them and then overlaying them, and even if you don't plan on overlapping them later, its still a good idea to do somethings UVs before hand so you don't need to UV the same object over and over later

As for LODs, don't worry about them for now, you need to get your main model made, UVed and textured before worrying about them

Any progress on this Wrecker?