L1A3 bayonet

[CaptMiller]

Continuing from my 9k111 fagot thread.

[quote=""'[R-DEV"]Rhino;2135822']I've been inactive, and still am tbh, due to r/l stuff. And I say it, because it is far easier to give feedback on something small and simple, than something large. Once you've learned the basics of all the steps, then you can go back to your old models and apply what you've learnt to them, then any mistakes still remaining will be much easier to give feedback on.

As for something basic, a pistol isn't that basic, depends on the design of the weapon itself thou and the detail you go for. Something like a grenade or a mine, etc, are things much easier to learn on, or a small prop etc. Talk to the Community mods or Factions, find out if there is anything simple they need.

Also look around at other model projects done by the community, like these for example:
https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... -pr-f.html
https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... f-wip.html
https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... f-wip.html
https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... f-wip.html

In fact if you want a simple task, the L1A3 Bayonet for the L1A1 SLR for PR:Falklands would be a really good task to learn on [/quote]

Bob_Marley']
L1A3 early production, long fuller:

L1A3 late production, short fuller:

Or L1A4:

Main difference is the attachment method of the pommel - L1A3 is brased where as L1A4 is riveted.

Blade:

[quote="CaptMiller""]"In fact if you want a simple task, the L1A3 Bayonet for the L1A1 SLR for PR:Falklands would be a really good task to learn on [/quote]"

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I already deleted invisible polygons

https://skfb.ly/PWKt






handle did not make a more detailed , anyway will not see it in hand[/QUOTE]

[CaptMiller]

the only blot that I could find, I tried to make this part of the new, but did not help. Maybe it's because of the smoothing groups or the deformation of the model itself after the chamfer?

[CaptMiller]

I fix bad sector , removing it and putting in its place plane , I can act in this way ?

[CaptMiller]

drew the knife handle

[CaptMiller]

My first texture))
thx to community for awesome tutorials, I'm far from perfect, but I feel some progress

[anantdeathhawk]

Wow! looks so real.

[CTRifle]

No offense meant but its gonna need alot more detail for us to use it, not pixely like that. What program are you using?



Heres an example of one the knives ingame, tho smaller res it still has those edge details and wear.

I made this a while back for my blog about the Browning, take a read over it, its simple but gives a gist. The steps I usually take are

1. Define what materials I want - in your case metal
2. add extra details like indents, rubber, grips, etc
3. add scratches like edges, nicks, dents etc
4. add dirt/grunge wear and tear

[CaptMiller]

I have used Adobe Photoshop CC 2015, pictures was created it 3dsMax 9 render.

Ok, I'll add new detales in accordance with that you gave me

[CaptMiller]

Hope now it looks better

[Mats391]

I think you could/should reduce the size of the UV by mirroring parts. Look at the texture CT posted, there both sides of the blade use same texture. Since the knife is quite symmetrical you can optimize the UV/texture a lot with that without losing detail.

[CaptMiller]

I think you could/should reduce the size of the UV by mirroring parts. Look at the texture CT posted, there both sides of the blade use same texture. Since the knife is quite symmetrical you can optimize the UV/texture a lot with that without losing detail.

instead of two blades to make one ? instead of two rings to make one ? : I have to use Google translator , but it does not always work correctly ??:

[Mineral]

Use the same UV on both sides of the blade = save half the UV space.

[Rhino]

Haven't had time to give you feedback but the model itself needs optimizing and improving too. Was hoping someone else might jump in and help you out on that front since I haven't any time at the moment to give you detailed feedback. One thing thou that would help people being able to give you feedback on your models would be to post Edged Faces pictures, as per this topic, since its far easier to tell the model structure: https://www.realitymod.com/forum/f388-p ... ssets.html

[CaptMiller]

which polygons I can delete and how can i improve ?

[Mr.VdHeide]

Red vertices are the ones you SHOULD remove, the blue ones are optional since they slightly improve the model's shape. You could move some of the blue vertices around a bit after you remove the red ones to improve the knife's shape.







Good Luck,




D.J.

[CaptMiller]

I made ​​a new handle it all right? I also deleted the vertices , which have say delete Hayde, except those that are on blade

can I start UV that knife ?

[Rhino]

Right quick bit of feedback from me while I have a few mins.

First quick pic with names so we can keep track of what we are talking about:


Next I would suggest going for the early production of the L1A3 with long fuller and a few other differences, since there are far more refs of this one and afaik, was more common during the Falklands War but not sure about that, and looks better, mainly due to the ware but a few other differences

Handle is better being rounded but needs some optimization, a lot of edges/verts doing nothing right now, especially on the top side and you could also make it a little more rounded in places. I would also go for the indents on the 1p model for the pins/rivets and latches etc.
The Butt / back part of the handle, it isn't quite right at the moment, its much more rounded and has a little lump in it, as well as a latch for when its attached onto the rifle, just some quick pics I found on google in a few secs:






Next for the early production of the L1A3 at least, the Guard (bit between the handle and blade) is a different shape, with an indent after the top ring:






I would also recommend you make the top ring at least, far more rounded. This part really sticks out and silhouettes and it needs all the sides it can get to look as round as possible. I would recommend something like 32 or possibly 64 sides to its inner and outer cylinder, but possibly more or less, really just need to just see what looks right without over doing it

On the fuller/blood grove, for the early production first needs to come to the back, but its not a hard end, it has a gradual gradient on both the front and back ends coming up to the level of the knife, where you have a hard indent. You also do not need that extra edge down the middle, that's just a waste of tris right now. Just try and make it like the ref


That's all for now and ye, take note to what the other guys have said too

[CaptMiller]

make this handle like it will be very difficult here, much more difficult than all that I have done before, I see no reason to spend this much time, perhaps in the future, if I want to make some kind of weapon, I will raise the modeling level to a new level, but Now I would not want to spend so much time on it.

Give your answer, you arrange those options handle, which I cited earlier? Guard and blade change is not difficult, but the handle is impossible to me to make as in the pictures, I had already tried.

in 9 max does not work WELD function , from which I can not bring together the vertexes symmetrically. also in some cases impossible to connect the vertexes by the cut function

[Rhino]

Handle is pretty tricky and you wont see it much in both 1p and 3p, unless it was mounted on the rifle which is unlikely to happen since that requires new animations etc, so you can miss out things like the indents etc which you can do with the normals, but basic shape and optimization is still a must

[CaptMiller]

in 9 max does not work WELD function , from which I can not pull together(do not combine them into one, but pull together) the vertexes symmetrically