Monitor help

[PLODDITHANLEY]

In a few months I will need to buy a monitor.

System 2500k GTX970 Asus T1E 22" TN monitor/TV 1080

I will not be going to a three screen set up anytime soon so a standalone.

1. Given that I'll be staying at 1080 (1440 too expensive for me) should I get a 24 or a 27"?

2. Panel TN, VA ou IPS?

3. G-Sync nice but more than I want to spend

4. I avoid China products wherever possible so no Acer.

5. 144Hz again is more than I am willing to pay.

6. I don't need speakers, I don't want a built in webcam, connections @ least 2 with 1 HDMI

27"

24"

[Rice N. Beans]

You're using a 22 inch TV currently?

[Rice N. Beans]

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-UltraSharp- ... B005LN1JEC
Do you really need HDMI? It limits your color range to television spec (eliminates the lowest blacks/darks and the brightest whites/lights)

I myself Iike the older S-IPS LCD panels, like Dell 2005fpw or 2007wfp (ensuring it has the LG.Philips panel first), or Apple Cinema from around 2007 that has an Apple power brick that comes with it

Those all however output at 60 frames per second (Hz) or 75

For games I like to use a CRT monitor because it can output at 100 Hz, 150 Hz, 170 Hz depending on type
My favorite types are the Trinitron/Diamondtron tube that have P, F, GDM, Graphics, in the name -- avoiding anything with M or E in the name

Welp good luck to you and don't spend too much money on some new-in-box thing, wasteful spending, get a used one that's not scratched or beat up

[PLODDITHANLEY]

Hadn't heard of that before, but more info here.

No room for a CRT, so really just shall I get a 27 or 24" 1080?

[Rice N. Beans]

I am biased towards IPS and S-IPS panels which leap in size from 23-inch to 30-inch with nothing in-between to my knowledge

[MaSSive]

Panel Size and Resolution
When it comes to gaming monitors, bigger is almost always better. If you have the room, a 27-inch screen provides plenty of real estate and offers the opportunity to go beyond Full High-Definition (FHD), which offers a maximum resolution of 1,920 by 1,080. Many of the newer 27-inch models are Wide, Quad High-Definition (WQHD) monitors with maximum resolutions of 2,560 by 1,440 pixels. The higher pixel count provides much sharper imagery than FHD, but you'll need a reasonably powerful graphics engine to play the latest games at the higher resolution, especially if you have all the effects enabled. If desk space is an issue, there are plenty of 24-inch monitors out there, but you'll be limited to 1,920-by-1,080 resolution.

So if staying at 1080 go for 24 inch monitor.

Panel Technology
There are several types of display technologies and each has its pluses and minuses. Twisted Nematic (TN) panels are the most affordable and are popular among gamers because they offer fast pixel responses and refresh rates, but they are prone to color shifting when viewed from an angle. Vertical Alignment (VA) screens are known for their high native-contrast ratio, robust colors, and ability to display deep blacks, but they are also known to produce noticeable ghosting effects, which can hurt gaming performance. In-Plane Switching (IPS) panels provide the best all-around color quality, strong gray-scale performance, and wide viewing angles, but they can't match the pixel response of TN panels and are subject to motion artifacts.

TN panel, period.

Pixel Response and Refresh Rate
Gaming monitors should have a fast pixel response and a high refresh rate. The most commonly used pixel response spec is gray to gray, which is measured in milliseconds and signifies the time it takes a pixel to transition from one shade of gray to another (a few companies still use the older black-to-white measurement). A low pixel response will help eliminate the smearing of moving images and provide a smoother overall picture than a higher pixel response. A gray-to-gray response of 2 milliseconds or less is ideal, but even a 4-millisecond gray-to-gray response is typically adequate for gaming.

A monitor's refresh rate refers to the time (per second) it takes to redraw the entire screen and is measured in Hertz (Hz). Most LCD monitors have a 60Hz refresh rate, which means the screen is refreshed 60 times per second, but fast-moving images may appear blurry at this refresh rate, or the panel may suffer from screen tearing, an artifact that occurs when the monitor displays pieces of two (or more) screen draws at the same time. Look for a display with a 120Hz or higher refresh rate, which not only helps reduce image blur and eliminate tearing, but is a requirement for active 3D technology.

Faster pixel response rate ( labelled as gray to gray in ms ) the less the better, look for ones with 1ms or less than 4ms. Refresh rate matters so 120Hz + refresh rate is desired, if not go 60Hz and utilize Vsync to limit framerate in case of problems.

Price
Screen size, panel technology, and features will determine how much you'll pay for a gaming monitor. You can snag a 24-inch model that uses TN technology with a fast gray-to-gray pixel response for around $200, but you won't get much in the way of features. Expect to pay more if you want perks, like an adjustable stand, a USB hub, multiple digital video inputs, and either G-Sync or FreeSync technology. A full-blown 27-inch model with all the bells and whistles, including 3D and either G-Sync or FreeSync support, can cost north of $500, and a 34-inch UHD monitor will run you more than $1,000. If you're looking for a big-screen, ultra-wide monitor with a curved panel, plan on spending even more.

So if we get things rounded up here you should be in the ~200-250 range for the new monitor it all depends on the features.


As for the quality it goes something like Eizo > Benq > LG > Viewsonic where top of the shelf Eizo and Benq can cost a fortune. I know designers and architects always use these. I myself use LG ( TV and monitors ), because... price.

So ideally this BenQ XL2430T 24" 1ms GTG Widescreen Gaming Monitor, 350 cd/m2 DCR 12,000,000:1, GROM 100 / 120 / 144 Hz, USB Hub Ergonomic Design, Preload Gaming settings-Newegg.com or without 144Hz feature BenQ 24" LED - RL2460HT (RL2460HT) : achat / vente Ecran PC sur ldlc.com

Its easy from this point on I hope, for you to choose the manufacturer. The features are set, good luck.

[Rice N. Beans]

"I want a TN I think"
No get an S-IPS, or a CRT
"I think I'm getting a TN, *hovers mouse cursor over the buy button*"
No, but you ..
"I'm getting the TN"
OK

If you wait 10 years you can get a what-would-be a $800 monitor for $40 that's perfectly fine
And likewise you can get a NICE nice-nice-nice 9 or 10 year old monitor for $40-50

The only difference between LCD and LEDs is LEDs are thinner and consume less power
LCDs are older but just as good as they've always been -- they don't go "bad" over time really
LEDs also come with proprietary power brick adapters whereas LCDs come in the general 3-prong power cord

I've seen **** and I've seen gold/diamonds
If you want to see someone in a game before they see you, make room for a CRT
If you want to notice details and enjoy colors, get an IPS
If you want to "just have a monitor" then just throw dice on something, really

I like MaSSive's Eizo suggestion, go Eizo if you can!

[MaSSive]

LED has a longer lifespan than LCD. I once fixed an old 17 inch LCD, dont want to that again...

Its all about lighting up the display. Cold cathodes produce heat, consume more power and last shorter, LED is the oposite, that is the only difference. Now LEDs have few different types but manufacturers tend not to list that in the specs. So its not really that important for the consumer. I am not saying LCD is bad, just LED is better.

Having a power adapter is also better versus having the power circuit integrated. If it dies you replace the adapter, what if its integrated? See my point?

[Rice N. Beans]

I work at a used computer store that is lined wall to wall, aisles also filled along the bottoms, with TN panel LCDs and as soon as a nice IPS comes in I'll let it sit out for a day or two and hook it up and if it isn't sold by the end of the next day or two or maybe give it a week I'll buy it for $40 from the guy I work for. They all work and the vast majority work despite being made in 2004, 2005, 2007, etc.

One of these days I'll take a picture of my storage unit and put it up here, my girlfriend doesn't even know to what extent I've been hoarding
>_< rough seas ahead but probably worth it maybe

Power adapters can cost $20-$30 and a 3-prong power cable costs $3. Not only do the volts and tip need to match but the amps must meet or exceed the required or else it will burn out the monitor. These things are not important if it's an LCD with 3-prong cord. If a capacitor on a motherboard bulges either way then you can buy another used monitor for $40 and when you donate the burnt out monitor I can harvest the nice panel out of it lol

Well actually hey I just learned something today, that I hadn't thought of. The guts in an external power supply could be and probably are the same guts that are on the circuit in an LCD, just put on the outside. I want to get into basic electrical stuff so I can do real DIY work eventually, can't seem to happen fast enough and all the electrical wizards are flying by me

[MaSSive]

Yeah they do last long. I have an Asus 19 inch LCD from 2008 at my mothers PC, it works as it did on day one, minus some button problems on the front, which are terribly designed and enginered.

Well Im sure you can get a used one for small price, but he mentioned buying a new one, so I focused on that. Why would he buy a new LCD if LED is better and consumes less power? The adaptors cost money, yes but I am yet to see one die. Plus if its integrated youre screwed, count in the money you need to fork for repair which would cost more than 20 or 30, more like 50 and up.

Also CRT. Its fine if you dont look at it too much, but I remmeber my eyes being like I smoked a truck of weed after gaming a lot, plus its huge, it consumes a lot of power, produces heat, hurts eyes because of the way the display works, not to mention the risk of explosion and fire. Its outdated, technology surpased it. It surpased the LCD too. Who knows maybe in few years LED will be history too.

Also note that those circuit boards in the adapters for LED monitors/TVs might not be suitable for LCD operation. The external adapter powers entire unit, not just cold cathodes, whereas in some LCDs you have a separate circuit board just for the CCFL tubes. Voltages and amperage might also not be the same for LED and LCD. Stay safe.

[Rice N. Beans]

Why don't we all just give up on technology, and become shamans and get high -- that's the quickest shortcut to achieve mental/visual distraction from the mundane and isn't that the goal of all this lol?

By the way disclaimer I do not recommend this, doing things will get you in trouble or kill you, don't do what I said, you'll run naked in front of an 18-wheeler, make your mom angry.

---

On a separate note (not creating a new post because that is not allowed) --

I sold a boxed unopened Diamond Plus 92 (a 19 inch CRT monitor by Mitsubishi, aperture grille Diamondtron) to a fellow in Hawaii about 1 year ago through eBay
Never seen the light of day nor breathed the free air until he opened it

His budget was $190

I shipped it out to him from Pittsburgh and he was super thrilled
I only got maybe $20 or $30 out of it after shipping and fees
The point of it was: there are people still left on this world that still understands the value of things
Meanwhile landfills are filling up with perfectly-good thrown-away items
Endless waste, endless spending .. why? Who's benefiting from all this? Not you or I